Understanding Spectral Wavelengths and How They Affect Photosynthetic Life

Understanding Spectral Wavelengths and How They Affect Photosynthetic Life

by Orphek 

Not long ago metal halide/HQI lighting was the lighting of choice for experienced reef keepers because of their high PAR values which generally exceeded 300+.  With the recent advent of LED lighting technologies, many hobbyists were leery about LED lighting because of their seemingly low PAR values and apparent lack of brightness.  To understand the reasoning for this, you must first understand the spectral wavelength and how it affects coral growth, our eyes, and the technology behind Orphek LED lighting for reef systems.


The acronym PAR relates to Photosynthetic Available Radiation.  This is all light that humans can see and covers a range between 400-700 nanometers.  All light in this spectrum range emits radiation and is how wavelengths are measured (nanometers).  The radiation in this range is not all useful light for coral growth, and in fact, just a small percentage of it.  There are two factors in this range that affect the human eye; brightness and chromaticity.  As an example, the color white is a bright color, while the color grey is considered to be a less bright version of that same white. In other words, the chromaticity of white and grey is the same while their brightness appears different to our eyes.  The reason for this is that the human eye is more sensitive to brightness in certain colors.  The yellow and green spectrum is especially dominant which means that green will appear much brighter than the same light intensity of light in the blue spectrum.  This is where the common misconception lies among aquarists regarding LED lighting; “the light isn't as bright as metal halides”.

The acronym PUR relates to Photosynthetic Usable Radiation.  This is the spectral range of light that is most beneficial to coral growth and has two ranges; 400-550 and 620-700.  This also happens to be in the spectrum ranges where light intensity is the least sensitive to our eyes.

The reason high PAR values or intensity is achieved with metal halide lighting is that Quantum meters measure the light being emitted throughout the visible spectrum of light (400-700 nm) and much of this light is not useable for coral growth.  The actual PAR values of the useable light (PUR) would be more like 100-150.

Orphek’s white LED technology allows more white light to be used and less blue.  The benefit of this technology is more lumens per watt which significantly raises PAR/PUR values and allows excellent coral growth with less heat and wasted energy.  Some companies use standard off the shelf Cree LEDs which have a higher lumens per watt and a shift toward the green spectrum which makes them appear bright.  Unfortunately, the only use green has is to promote nuisance algae growth in your system.  The graphs below compare Orphek’s 16,000K white LED with a Cree 7,000K LED.  You can see in the chromaticity chart (bottom right) where the Cree LED has a large color shift toward green and a color rendering index (CRI) of 75.

Orphek’s white LED technology allows our LEDs to produce light that mimics 18,000K while producing very high PUR per watt levels. This is why it is very important to view a spectrograph of a LED fixture you intend to purchase.  As the above Cree graph depicts, there is much wasted energy between 500 and 580 nm (about 50%) as this spectrum of light is not of much use for coral growth and lowers the needed PUR value.  This is why PAR values can be misleading without understanding the spectrum and spectrographs.  The Cree white LED spectrograph would likely result in a higher lumens  per watt ratio than the Orphek white LED, but not when you mix one Cree LED and one Cree blue LED to get the 18,000K look.  This is due to the fact that blue LEDs have a very low lumens per watt ratio.  In the Cree spectrograph there is wasted energy in wavelengths (500-575 nm) that are of no use for coral growth.  So if we compare the Orphek spectrograph to the Cree, the Cree would result in a higher lumens per watt value.  It is understandable why some companies use the Cree LEDs and it’s because of their high lumens per watt ratio.  It must be understood that an excessive shift toward the green spectrum results in a lower PUR level.  The Orphek spectrograph clearly illustrates that our LEDs are more beneficial for coral growth because the wavelengths are tuned to the light spectrum (PUR) that benefit corals and not other wavelengths that are of no use for growing corals.  High intensity in the green and yellow spectrum negatively affects coral and anemone growth. The Orphek chromaticity graph shows a shift to blue and red (chlorophyll A and B) which is beneficial for coral growth.
It cannot be stressed enough that high PAR values in LED lighting fixtures do not necessarily mean the light is going to be better for growing corals.

BUTTERFLYFISH COMPATIBILITY WITH CORALS

BUTTERFLYFISH COMPATIBILITY WITH CORALS

by Orphek

The ability to mix butterflyfishes with corals would be a wonderful boon for most reef aquarists. Their unique shape and coloration are second to none, and combining corals with Butterflyfish can double the pleasure. This can be a reality if care is taken to choose those fishes that are reasonably safe for the type of corals an aquarist wishes to keep. The lists shown below have been compiled by two prominent figures in the marine hobby: Bob Goemans, and Dr. Vincent Hargreaves. Fishes deemed difficult to keep/acclimate have been eliminated from the original list. Bear in mind there are few butterflyfishes that are considered even “relatively safe” around both, hard and soft corals, and by no means does this list imply that all fishes under each category pose zero threat.  There will likely be some sampling taking place on occasion, but in larger, well stocked reef systems where the aquarist offers a proper and nutritious diet which closely matches their natural food source, the damage is likely to be unnoticeable.  Again, the key word is “relatively” safe, as there are many aspects that still need to be realized, researched, and taken into consideration before one can be assured that a given butterflyfish will be completely safe around his or her corals.


A Note About The Chaetodontidae Family Of Fishes

Butterflyfish are some of the most beautiful fish found on the reefs, and unfortunately many of these can be moderate to difficult to acclimate to captive conditions. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature, though some more pugnacious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish. There are a few species considered easy to keep. Large mature tanks (six months minimum) with a good supply of quality live rock and the absence of competing and/or aggressive fish will increase the degree of success in acclimation and must be considered before purchasing any of these fish. Most species will require at least a 70 gallon tank, and with butterflyfish, larger is better, and will increase your chances of long term survivability and success. Feeding a proper and nutritious diet fed in small amounts several times per day is highly recommended. The natural food sources for each species will be listed. Some of the best species of butterflyfish can be difficult to acclimate to prepared foods, especially on introduction. It is important that an adequate, sustainable food mix be found soon, and offered often. Live brine shrimp and/or Copepods are a good starter for fussy newcomers as are various types of worms and crustaceans available in live and frozen form. Other meaty foods such as squid, minced clam and prepared blends can also be offered in small quantities. For stubborn feeders, a paste mixture of the above foods which can then be applied to a “feeding stone” will help trigger feeding and shorten the acclimation time toward feeding prepared foods. There are a handful of these fishes that are rather easy to acclimate to prepared foods and most of these are commonly seen at marine fish dealers and also mentioned under notes.  Water conditions for this family of fish must be of excellent quality which improves their health and resistance to parasitic and fungal diseases.  A consistent pH range of 8.2-8.3 should be maintained with a temperature range of 75-85 degrees. There are a few deeper water species that fare much better with cooler water temperatures and these fishes must be investigated further before purchasing. The use of an efficient protein skimmer is a must and ozone is recommended, but not absolutely necessary for success. Tankmates must also be chosen carefully so no compatibility/territorial issues arise. Some species do better kept in pairs or groups. With that being said, let’s look at our first list.

If Keeping Stony Corals, The Butterflyfishes Listed Below Are Relatively Safe

Chaetodon collare (Pakistani/Red-Tail/Collare/Brown Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-West Pacific: Persian Gulf and Maldives to Japan, the Philippines and Indonesia.



Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallons



Size:  To 6.5 inches



Natural Foods:  Live polyps, other Cnidarians, gorgonians, tunicates, worms, and crustaceans.



Associations:  Occur in coral reefs in pairs or several aggregations; although in captivity they may act aggressively to members of their own species. The Reticulated Butterflyfish (C. reticulatus) is a near match of C. collare in appearance, but has a less brown hue and light blue instead of red in its black based tail. These two species are occasionally found in association in the Western Pacific.  Usually found on the reef edge and upper slope. Pairs form during breeding.



Care Level:  Moderate to difficult 

Notes:  Groups of two or more increase your success rate in keeping this species long term. 

Chaetodon pelewensis (Dot-and-Dash/Sunset Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Pacific Ocean: Australia to Fiji, Samoa, Tuamoto Archipelago and the Society Islands. 

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 5 inches

Natural Foods:  Coral polyps and small benthic invertebrates 

Associations:  Over reefs and rocks.

Care Level:  Moderate 

Notes:  This fish is best kept in very large, peaceful community aquariums decorated with large amounts of live rock. It should not be kept with conspecifics or similar butterflyfish, and should not be kept with any stress-inducing fish. Most can adapt easily to tank life and willingly accept nearly all kinds of food.

Chaetodon punctatofasciatus (Spot Banded Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Christmas Island in the eastern Indian Ocean to the Line Islands, north to the Ryukyu Islands, south to Rowley Shoals and the northern Great Barrier Reef; throughout Micronesia. Replaced by Chaetodon guttatissimus in the Indian Ocean.



Minimum Tank Size:  60 gallons



Size:  To 5 inches



Natural Foods:  Zoobenthos, filamentous algae, corals, and benthic invertebrates 



Associations:  Common in coral rich areas and clear waters of lagoon and seaward reefs. Sometimes found on outer subtidal reef flats. Often seen in pairs during breeding.  Juveniles are secretive.



Care Level:  Easy to moderate. 

Notes:  Provide numerous hiding places and calm tankmates. Most will relish chopped sea food meats and algae based meals.

Chaetodon guttatissimus (Spotted Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indian Ocean: Red Sea south to Durban, South Africa and east to Christmas Island. Reported from western Thailand and Bali, Indonesia.



Minimum Tank Size:  60 gallons



Size:  To 5 inches



Natural Foods:  Feed on polychaetes, coral polyps, and algae. 



Associations:  Inhabit lagoons and seaward reefs. Occur in pairs or small groups, form pairs during breeding.



Care Level:  Easy to moderate. 

Notes:  Aggressive to others in the family. Rarely seen in the trade. Requires a varied diet with numerous small feedings per day.

Chaetodon rafflesi (Raffles's/Latticed Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Sri Lanka to the Tuamoto Islands, north to southern Japan, south to the Great Barrier Reef; Palau (Belau) to the eastern Caroline Islands in Micronesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallons

Size:  To six inches

Natural Foods:  Feeds on sea anemones, polychaetes, and octocorallian. Scleractinian coral polyps may be sampled. 

Associations:  An uncommon species found in areas of rich coral growth of lagoon and protected reef flats and seaward reefs.

Care Level:  Easy to moderate. 

Notes:  This species should be offered algae stones and the so-called 'feeding stones' which are prepared by spreading the food pulp over the stone. Chopped sea food meats are recommended as well. This species will display a dark spot on the front part of the body when stressed and/or sleeping.  Provide peaceful tankmates and plenty of hiding places to go when stressed. Not to be trusted with sea anemones.

Chaetodon striatus (Banded Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Western Atlantic: Massachusetts, USA to Santa Catarina, Brazil, including the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea. Eastern Central Atlantic: St. Paul's Rocks

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallons   

Size:  To 6.5 inches

Natural Foods:  Polychaete worms, coral polyps, crustaceans and mollusk eggs. 

Associations:  Adults may form plankton feeding aggregations of up to 20 individuals, and occasionally clean other reef fishes which join the group, such as grunts, parrotfishes and surgeon fishes.

Care Level:  Moderate 

Notes:  Can be difficult to acclimate to prepared foods, but once acclimated, this fish is quite hardy and well behaved toward other fish members of the tank. Provide a vitamin enriched diet of meaty foods and plenty of nooks and crannies. This fish prefers lower water temperatures in the range of 70-79 degrees. 

Chaetodon trichrous (Tahiti Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Eastern Pacific: Society Islands, Tahiti, and Tuamoto Islands.  Despite its relatively limited distribution range, this species occurs in large populations.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallons

Size:  To 5 inches

Natural Foods:  There is limited knowledge of its diet, but it has been seen to feed off the substrate and plankton.

Associations:  Generally localized to just a few islands in French Polynesia. Found in lagoon reefs, usually solitary or paired. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy

Notes:  A good species of butterflyfish to start with for aquarists with limited experience.“It is the easiest of all the butterflyfishes to keep and will readily take flake food out of the hand once acclimated. It is hard to kill. Great in trios until a pair is established, and then the third individual must be removed before it is killed by the other two. But they must all be the same size.  I have a breeding pair in my main tank at the moment.”  Dr. Vincent Hargreaves, marine biologist.

Chaetodon vagabundis (Vagabond Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Red Sea and East Africa to the Line and Tuamoto islands, north to southern Japan, south to the Lord Howe and the Austral islands.

Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallons

Size:  To 9 inches

Natural Foods: Omnivorous, feed on algae, coral polyps, crustaceans and worms. 

Associations:  Found in reef flats, lagoon and seaward reefs and sometimes in turbid waters subject to freshwater runoff.  Swim in pairs. Stable monogamous pairs with both pair members jointly defending a feeding territory against other pairs, but often accompanies other species without being aggressive.

Care Level:  Easy 

Notes:  Closely related to Chaetodon decussatus. One of the easiest butterflyfishes to acclimate to captive conditions.  Can be kept in pairs.

Chaetodon wiebeli (Weibel's Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Western Pacific: Japan to Thailand; including the Ryukyu Islands, Taiwan, the South China Sea, and the Gulf of Thailand.

Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallons

Size:  To 7 inches

Natural Foods:  Benthic invertebrates, algae 

Associations:  Occur in rocky and coral reef areas where they are found in pairs and small groups. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Moderate.  Rarely seen in the trade, but actually a good reef aquarium fish. 

Notes:  Requires vitamin enriched meaty and algae based foods fed numerous times per day.

Forcipiger longirostris (Longnose Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: East Africa to the Hawaiian, Marquesan, and Pitcairn islands, north to the Bonin (Ogasawara) Islands, south to New Caledonia and the Austral Islands; throughout Micronesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  150 gallon

Size:  To 8 inches

Natural Foods:  Feeds mainly on whole organisms such as small crustaceans. 

Associations:  A generally uncommon species that inhabits seaward reefs to depths greater than 60 meters.

Care Level:  Moderate to difficult.

Notes:  Occasionally seen in the trade.  Do not confuse with Forcipiger flavissimus which is not suitable for reef systems. Plenty of healthy live rock is suggested for this species.  Small size frozen foods such as Cyclopeeze may entice it to feed. A seafood paste applied on a Brain Coral skeleton or rock is also suggested. Live pods are generally irresistible.

Hemitaurichthys polylepis (Pyramid Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Pacific Ocean: Christmas Island in the eastern Indian Ocean to Indonesia and the Hawaiian, Line, and Pitcairn islands, north to southern Japan, south to Rowley Shoals and New Caledonia. Replaced by Hemitaurichthys zoster in the Indian Ocean.

Minimum Tank Size:  150 gallon

Size:  To 7 inches

Natural Foods:  Zooplankton 

Associations:  Occur in large schools that may extend several meters above the edges of steep current-swept outer reef slopes. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Moderate 

Notes:  Likely one of the safest butterflyfish to keep with both hard and soft corals. It usually will accept most foods offered, including finely chopped seafood, frozen or live brine shrimp, frozen preparations, crustacean flesh, mysid shrimp and frozen preparations, and even flake food.

Hemitaurichthys zoster (Black Pyramid Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indian Ocean: East Africa to Guam, north to India, south to Mauritius. 

Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallon

Size:  To 6 inches

Natural Foods:  Zooplankton, algae 

Associations:  Inhabit open water off the reef edge to depths greater than 35 meters.  Form large schools and form pairs during breeding. 

Care Level:  Easy

Notes:  One of the hardiest butterflyfishes that is safe with all corals. Mainly a plankton feeder. 

Heniochus chrysostomus (Pennant/Three Band Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Western India to Pitcairn Islands, north to southern Japan, south to Rowley Shoals, southern Queensland, and New Caledonia; throughout Micronesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  100 gallon

Size:  To 7 inches

Natural Foods:  Zoobenthos, Cnidarians, some hard corals 

Associations:  Common in coral-rich areas of subtidal reef flats and lagoon and seaward reefs. Juveniles solitary and usually found in estuaries and lagoons. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy  

Notes:  Easily maintained in the aquarium and will accept a wide variety of foods, including fortified brine shrimp, mysis, and chopped seafoods. Herbivore food should also be offered. Requires several feedings per day. The yellow snout remains through adulthood.  May be kept in pairs if introduced at the same time otherwise territorial disputes may arise. This fish acclimates much better if kept with docile tankmates.

Heniochus varius (Brown/Horned/Humphead Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Pacific Ocean: Indonesia to the Society Islands, north to southern Japan, south to Rowley Shoals and New Caledonia; throughout Micronesia. Reported from Christmas Island in the eastern Indian Ocean. Replaced by Heniochus pleurotaenia in the Indian Ocean.

Minimum Tank Size:  100 gallons

Size:  To 8 inches

Natural Foods:  Benthic invertebrates, corals 

Associations:  Occur in deep lagoons and steep outer reef slopes, with mixed algae and coral growth. Solitary or in small groups. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Medium to difficult 

Notes:  Adults develop a prominent hump on the forehead and a curved horn above each eye, and lose the elongate dorsal filament.  If frightened, feeding may stop. Keep with docile tankmates and provide caves and overhangs for security.

Prognathodes aculeatus (Atlantic Long Snout Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Western Atlantic: southern Florida and the western Gulf of Mexico to the West Indies-Caribbean region and Venezuela.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 4 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on small invertebrates. Often seen nibbling on the tube feet of sea urchins or the tentacles of tubeworms, other annelids. 

Associations: Inhabit deep coral-rich reefs and drop-offs.  Unlike some chaetodonts it does not pick parasites from the bodies of other fishes. Solitary, sometimes seen in pairs. Seeks refuge when approached. Form pairs during breeding.  

Care Level:  Moderate 

Notes:  Rarely seen in the trade. Requires a varied diet including frozen foods and quality flake foods. Black worms and/or bloodworms may be required to get it feeding.  Three to four feedings per day recommended. Can acclimate to captive conditions well if provided hiding places to retire at night.  Docile tankmates highly recommended.



If Keeping Soft Corals, The Butterflyfish Listed Below Are Relatively Safe

Chaetodon auriga (Threadfin Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Red Sea and East Africa (extending to Mossel Bay, South Africa,  to the Hawaiian, Marquesan, and Ducie islands, north to southern Japan, south to Lord Howe and Rapa islands.

Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallon

Size:  To 8 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed mainly by tearing pieces from polychaetes, sea anemones, coral polyps, and algae. 

Associations:  Benthopelagic. May be seen in a variety of habitats ranging from rich coral reefs to weedy and rubble covered areas. Maybe found singly, in pairs, and in aggregations that roam over large distances in search of food.  Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy 

Notes:  Juveniles have a black bar over the head that hides the eye and an eye-sized black spot on the soft dorsal fin.  Requires numerous feedings per day.  If introduced first into the aquarium, it will establish its territory and aggressively defend it. If this fish is to be kept with other butterflies, introduce it last. Needs plenty of rock work with caves for security.  Readily accepts most foods, and is one of the hardiest butterflies in the trade. Not to be trusted with sea anemones.

Chaetodon falcula (Saddleback Butterflyfish)

Distribution: Indian Ocean: East Africa south to 27°S and east to Indonesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  120 gallon

Size:  To 8 inches

Natural Foods:  Feeds mainly on invertebrates. 

Associations:  Found on the reef edge and upper slope. Usually in current-prone habitats; juveniles secretive in corals. Generally seen in pairs or in small aggregations. Form pairs when breeding.

Care Level:  Medium to difficult 

Notes:  Feed a variety of enriched frozen foods (meaty and algae), quality flake foods may be supplemented as well.  Numerous feedings per day recommended. Difficult feeders can be started with black worms, bloodworms and/or unwanted anemones. Needs plenty of swimming room, especially for adults. Provide plenty of live rock with open caves for security.

Chaetodon guttatissimus (Spotted Butterflyfish)

Distribution: Indian Ocean: Red Sea south to Durban, South Africa and east to Christmas Island. Reported from western Thailand and Bali, Indonesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 5 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on polychaetes, coral polyps, and algae. 

Associations:  Inhabit lagoon and seaward reefs. Occur in pairs or small groups. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Medium to difficult 

Notes:  Rarely seen in the trade. Aggressive to conspecifics. Requires a varied diet with numerous feedings per day.

Chaetodon kleinii (Klenin's Butterflyfish)

Distribution: Indo-Pacific: Red Sea and East Africa (south to Coffee Bay, South Africa, to the Hawaiian Islands and Samoa, north to southern Japan, south to New South Wales, Australia and New Caledonia. Eastern Pacific: Galapagos Islands

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 5.5 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed mainly on soft coral polyps (mainly on Sarcophyton tracheliophorum and Litophyton viridis), algae and zooplankton.

Associations:  Occur in deeper lagoons and channels, and seaward reefs. Benthopelagic. Occur singly or in pairs. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy 

Notes:   Can be quite shy on introduction but once acclimated can be quite hardy.  Requires a variety of frozen foods both meaty and green and can be supplemented with quality flake foods with numerous feedings per day.  Gets along well with members of its own species and/or other butterflyfish. One of the easier butterflyfish to keep.

Chaetodon punctatofasciatus (Spot Banded Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Christmas Island in the eastern Indian Ocean to the Line Islands, north to the Ryukyu Islands, south to Rowley Shoals and the northern Great Barrier Reef; throughout Micronesia. Replaced by Chaetodon guttatissimus in the Indian Ocean.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 5 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on filamentous algae, corals, and benthic invertebrates.

Associations:  Common in coral rich areas and clear waters of lagoon and seaward reefs. Sometimes found on outer subtidal reef flats. Juveniles secretive. Often in pairs during breeding. Occasionally hybridize with C. pelewensis in the southern part of its range.

Care Level:  Moderate 

Notes:   Will accept most aquarium foods including algae products.  Live foods may be needed to induce feeding. Prone to marine Ich. Can be kept with others of the family.

Chaetodon rafflesi (Latticed Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indo-Pacific: Sri Lanka to the Tuamoto Islands, north to southern Japan, south to the Great Barrier Reef; Palau (Belau) to the eastern Caroline Islands in Micronesia.

Minimum Tank Size:  100 gallon

Size:  To 6 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on sea anemones, polychaetes, and octocorallian and scleractinian coral polyps.  

Associations:  An uncommon species found in areas of rich coral growth of lagoon and protected reef flats and seaward reefs. Often in pairs. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy to moderate 

Notes:  In captivity, this species should be fed algae stones and the so-called 'feeding stones' which are prepared by spreading the food pulp over the stone. Peaceful tankmates recommended.  One of the easier butterflyfish to keep. Not to be trusted with sea anemones.

Chaetodon xanthurus (Pearl Scale Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Western Pacific: Indonesia and the Philippines, north to the Ryukyu Islands.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 5.5 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on small benthic invertebrates and algae, similar to C. mertensii. Form pairs during breeding. 

Associations:  Clear coastal to outer reef slopes and drop-offs. Found around staghorn corals. The only member of the family with a crosshatch pattern of dark lines on the sides. Generally seen below 15 meters depth and occurs singly or in pairs.

Care Level:  Easy to moderate 

Notes:  If keeping more than one, introduce at the same time. Accepts a wide variety of aquarium foods. Vitamin enriched meaty diet recommended. Peaceful tankmates recommended. One of the easier butterflyfish to keep.

Chelmon rostratus (Copperband Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Western Pacific: Andaman Sea to Ryukyu Islands and Australia.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 8 inches

Natural Foods:  Tubeworms, benthic invertebrates. 

Associations:  A common species found singly and in pairs along rocky shores and coral reefs; also in estuaries and silty inner reefs. Form pairs during breeding.

Care Level:  Easy to moderate

Notes:  A territorial species.  Distinguished from C. marginalis by its color pattern and number of dorsal fin rays (fewer in C. rostratus). Easily maintained in the aquarium if the right conditions are provided and accepts a wide variety of foods.  Relishes Tubifex worms and Aiptasia anemones.  Will decimate tubeworm populations. Peaceful tankmates recommended.

Hemitaurichthys zoster (Black Pyramid Butterflyfish)

Distribution:  Indian Ocean: East Africa to Guam, north to India, south to Mauritius.

Minimum Tank Size:  70 gallon

Size:  To 7 inches

Natural Foods:  Feed on zooplankton and algae. 

Associations:  Inhabit open water off the reef edge, to depths greater than 35 meters. Form large schools. Form pairs when breeding.

Care Level:  Easy

Notes:  Diet should consist of frozen and freeze-dried foods containing algae are good substitutes and can be supplemented with dried algae and vitamin enriched brine and mysis shrimp. Best kept in small groups. Does not appreciate brightly lit aquariums, ledges should be provided to offset this. One of the very few butterflyfishes that are entirely reef safe.

Butterflyfishes To Avoid

The butterflyfishes shown below should not be purchased because of their specific dietary needs.  All of them are obligatory coral feeders and are very difficult to keep.

 

C. aureofasciatus

                         C. trifasciatus

C. melapterus

C. baronessa

C. larvatus

C. baronessa.jpg

all photos are courtesy of Bob Fenner.

Tips for Buying an LED Fixture

Orphek’s Tips for Buying an LED Fixture

With the growing number of LED fixtures available to the hobbyists, selecting one to purchase can be a difficult decision and one that needs careful consideration.  Below are a few items you should be aware of when shopping for a LED lighting system.

1. Make sure the fixture will emit enough intensity for the types of animals you plan on keeping.  Depth of tank is especially important as there are not too many LED fixtures that are capable of providing sufficient PAR at depths over 24 inches. SPS corals and the more attractive clams will require high intensity lighting.


2. The spectral quality of the LED fixture is equally as important as intensity.  High intensity (PAR) is not much benefit if the wavelength is not tuned for the coral’s needs.  Yellow and green wavelengths encourage nuisance algae growth, lower PUR value, and of are no benefit to corals.  DO NOT purchase a LED fixture without looking at a spectrograph of that particular unit.  If none is available, cross that fixture off your list.  A spectral range similar to the one shown below would be ideal.

Spectrograph of Orphek’s XP 18k LED

1.  Look for a nice calming shimmer effect and not a rapid flicker that some LED fixtures exhibit.


2. CRI (Color Rendering Index) is also important.  Look for at least 80 CRI and above.  Fish and corals should look natural and the sand bed should appear whitish and not have any unnatural tint to it.


3. Look for color “hot spots” where one color is more pronounced than others in a given area.  This can indicate poor lens quality which inhibits diffusion of light.  Multi-chip LEDs are generally the best at spreading individual colors evenly.  Pendants with excellent optics also fair very well in this regard.


4. Look for fixtures with a high white LED  Kelvin temperature.  A 7,000K fixture is not much better than a 7,000K metal halide/HQI lamp.


5. Efficiency; Look for a high total lumens per watt fixture not just the white LED lumens per watt to ensure you are getting the most light per watt.  Bargain fixtures generally have a low lumens per watt rating.


6. Choose a manufacturer who is constantly developing new technology, not one who rebrands  fixtures with standard industry LED components.


7. 10.   Choose a fixture where the manufacturer provides upgrades such as drivers and emitters which allow you to have the latest technology without needing to purchase a new fixture.


8. 11.  Aesthetics and mounting options are important.  Choose a fixture that allows you to mount it for your specific application.


9. 12.  Avoid feature rich LED fixtures such as those having the ability to change intensity of colored LEDs or other disco like gimmickry.  You will soon learn that you have paid for features you will not care to use.

The above should help you immensely in choosing a LED fixture to fit your needs.  Or you can save time and money by just buying an Orphek LED lighting fixture as all Orphek products meet or exceed all of the above goals or requirements.

Orphek PR 156 customized for research needs

Is UV light a gimmick in LED Fixtures, or do corals benefit by it?

Is UV light a gimmick in LED Fixtures, or do corals benefit by it?

by Orphek

UV light can be dangerous to all biological life including us humans so we will first explain the different wavelengths of UV light and their effects. 

UV-A – 315-400nm

UVA is the most commonly found form of UV, and is responsible for the tanning effect we see in our skin after time spent in sunlight.  UV-A can cause sunburn if exposure is excessive and the atmosphere does very little to block this range of UV.

UV-B – 280-315nm

UVB is the most dangerous of all forms of UV light.  It possesses enough energy to wreak havoc on cellular DNA cells but not enough to be absorbed by our atmosphere like UV-C.

Overcast or cloudy skies are not enough protection from this type of UV light.

UV-C – 200-280nm

This light is relatively safe to us because our atmosphere absorbs these rays.  UV-C is found on germicidal lamps and UV sterilizers where it will destroy any biological life it comes in contact with.

Is UV Light Safe For Corals?

The answer is yes and it is beneficial to corals providing it is emitted at safe levels. Metal halide and especially HQI lamps all emit much UV-A and must be filtered out by a glass or acrylic cover or corals face the possibility of bleaching as the Zooxanthellae cannot adjust to this light at a very fast pace.  Since corals need sunlight to make food, most live in shallow waters near the ocean’s surface which exposes them to UV-A and UV-B rays.  Fortunately corals have the ability to make their own sunscreen to protect them and allow only high and safe ranges of UV which is beneficial to the Zooxanthellae that reside in the corals which provide food to them by way of photosynthesis.  This is one of the concerns with our ozone layer slowly being reduced.  The ozone filters out the dangerous UV-C rays which would otherwise kill the corals as they cannot produce enough sunscreen to protect them from these type UV rays.

Unlike metal halide lamps, LEDs in the 400-700nm range that are used in aquarium fixtures do not emit UV radiation and that is one of the reasons Orphek now incorporates high range UV-A LEDs in their systems.  The beauty of this is that unlike metal halide/HQI lamps, the UV-A output can be controlled thereby providing safe and beneficial levels for the corals while still bringing out the beautiful fluorescence of the corals.  Orphek’s UV LEDs are in the range of 380-400nm which enters the visible range which produce a small amount of UV yielding a bluish purple light causing the corals to fluoresce while improving photosynthesis within the corals.

 

coral fluorescence under uv orphek ml7

Corals fluorescing under Orphek LED Lighting using UV LEDs 

When switching to a high PAR/PUR Orphek pendant, you may notice that your corals may close up their polyps or shrink back.  This is a self protective reaction to the change of light, both in intensity and spectral quality.  Within a few days you will notice the color of the coral may change depending on its former lighting source. This change in color actually comes from the Zooxanthellae which reside in the coral. These algae are adapting to the change in ultraviolet light by changing how much UV light they can absorb, and this adaptation is reflected visually as color.
It is not uncommon for corals with bright colors to adjust to the lower UV-A light found in Orphek LED fixtures which incorporate UV LEDs.  The possible loss of some colorful pigmentation is not necessarily a sign of unhealthy coral; the corals are just adjusting to their new environment and will be very colorful.

  

Orphek DIF100-XP multi-chip with UV LEDs.

All DIF- XP series have UV LEDs in a proportional amount.

The PR156-XP also uses UV LEDs

Orphek has spent a considerable amount of time testing our UV LEDs with different species of corals to ensure that the UV range is safe and beneficial for corals.  The UV LEDs Orphek incorporates into their systems are safe for humans and will cause no damage to your eye sight.  UV in this range has been tested by NASA and proven to be safe for humans. 

DIF 100 blue UV

MAGNESIUM (Mg) AND its ROLE

MAGNESIUM (Mg) AND its ROLE

IN THE REEF AQUARIUM

Magnesium ranks fifth of the eight major elements in seawater while the remaining elements are considered trace elements.  The chart below will obviously explain the importance of magnesium supplements in our marine aquariums, whether it be reef or fish only.

at 3.5% salinity

Element Hydrogen H2O Oxygen H2O Sodium NaCl Chlorine NaCl Magnesium Mg Sulfur S Potassium K Calcium Ca Bromine Br	At.weight 1.00797 15.9994 22.9898 35.453 24.312 32.064 39.102 40.08 79.909	ppm 110,000 883,000 10,800 19,400 1,290 904 392 411 67.3		Element Molybdenum Mo Ruthenium Ru Rhodium Rh Palladium Pd Argentum (silver) Ag Cadmium Cd Indium In Stannum (tin) Sn Antimony Sb	At.weight 0.09594 101.07 102.905 106.4 107.870 112.4 114.82 118.69 121.75	ppm 0.01 0.0000007 . . 0.00028 0.00011 . 0.00081 0.00033
Helium He Lithium Li Beryllium Be Boron B Carbon C Nitrogen ion Fluorine F Neon Ne Aluminium Al Silicon Si Phosphorus P Argon Ar Scandium Sc Titanium Ti Vanadium V Chromium Cr Manganese Mn Ferrum (Iron) Fe Cobalt Co Nickel Ni	4.0026 6.939 9.0133 10.811 12.011 14.007 18.998 20.183 26.982 28.086 30.974 39.948 44.956 47.90 50.942 51.996 54.938 55.847 58.933 58.71	0.0000072 0.170 0.0000006 4.450 28.0 15.5 13 0.00012 0.001 2.9 0.088 0.450 <0.000004 0.001 0.0019 0.0002 0.0004 0.0034 0.00039 0.0066		Tellurium Te Iodine I Xenon Xe Cesium Cs Barium Ba Lanthanum La Cerium Ce Praesodymium Pr Neodymium Nd Samarium Sm Europium Eu Gadolinium Gd Terbium Tb Dysprosium Dy Holmium Ho Erbium Er Thulium Tm Ytterbium Yb Lutetium Lu Hafnium Hf	127.6 166.904 131.30 132.905 137.34 138.91 140.12 140.907 144.24 150.35 151.96 157.25 158.924 162.50 164.930 167.26 168.934 173.04 174.97 178.49	. 0.064 0.000047 0.0003 0.021 0.0000029 0.0000012 0.00000064 0.0000028 0.00000045 0.0000013 0.0000007 0.00000014 0.00000091 0.00000022 0.00000087 0.00000017 0.00000082 0.00000015 <0.000008

Science/Rationale/Use

In addition to magnesium’s biological functions, especially in the skeleton forming process of stony corals and other invertebrates, it also plays a significant role in preventing excessive precipitation of calcium and bicarbonate.  Depleted levels of magnesium (under 800ppm) can cause low pH and an inability to maintain proper calcium levels.



How much magnesium do corals (and Coralline algae for that matter) absorb?

Farley states that corals in the ocean can incorporate between 0.1% and 3.5% by weight.  Coralline algae also incorporates a considerable amount, typically more than 1%, and as high as 4.4% by weight.  There are few data on coral skeletons in aquaria, but the magnesium content is not expected to be significantly different from this range. (Randy Holmes-Farley, Ph.D.)

Hopefully, this will explain why magnesium dosing is just as important as calcium dosing in reef aquariums because without maintaining magnesium level at the proper level, the calcium availability will suffer along with your calcium loving invertebrates.  It is interesting to note that some medications used to treat some  human diseases such as Osteoporosis contain calcium, and it is interesting to note that magnesium in these medications are at the same 3 to 1 ratio.



Dosing

Magnesium and calcium should be kept at a 3 to 1 ratio, much the same as found on the reefs.  Low magnesium can have an adverse effect on an animal’s ability to absorb available calcium.  If kept in balance, 420ppm of calcium and 1280ppm of magnesium, the entire 420ppm of calcium will be available to calcium loving animals.  Should the magnesium levels lower, so will the available calcium even if it does measure 420ppm with your test kit.  An example would be that with 640ppm of magnesium available, only 210ppm of calcium would be available to the animals to absorb.  Whatever you choose to keep your calcium level at, multiply this by three to find the amount of magnesium needed to make your entire level of calcium available.  By the same token, dividing the magnesium level by three will give you the amount of calcium available to the animals providing the calcium is maintained at 400-420ppm.

Most systems will require small doses two to three times per week depending on the density of your stony coral population.

There are some manufacturers that add magnesium to their calcium supplements.  Seachem adds magnesium to Reef Complete and Reef Advantage Calcium, but not to their other calcium products.  Testing will be required to determine if there is enough magnesium present in these products to satisfy the magnesium level in your system.



Always choose supplements from reputable manufacturers to ensure that the purity of the product is maintained.  If one brand is markedly cheaper than another, beware.



Testing/Test Kits

Initially, frequent magnesium testing should be carried out until you can determine the dose amount and frequency of dosing.  Most, if not all test kits for magnesium will use the titration method which will give accurate enough readings for our purpose.  The average shelf life for reagents is generally a year and most manufacturers will have a manufacturing date stamped somewhere on the box.  For this reason it is better to purchase your test kits from a source that has a high turnover rate which will ensure freshness of the reagents. There are many good magnesium test kits available, and again, buy from a reputable manufacturer.  Salifert, Seachem, and the newer Red Sea Pro Test Kits are all very good kits.

Other Sources of Magnesium Supplements 

Epsom salts (USP grade magnesium sulfate heptaydrate) has been and is being used by some aquarists because it is fairly inexpensive and readily available in drug stores.  The problem with using Epsom salts is that if this product is used to raise magnesium by a significant amount, the water would be enriched with sulphate so do not consider this as an ideal long term supplement.

Another DIY supplement to avoid is magnesium chloride commonly sold as deicer and labeled as MAG Flake.  Quality levels of this product are not maintained by the manufacturer close enough for use in our aquariums.  They sometimes contain ammonia which is something we definitely do not want in our systems.

Interactions/Troubles/Fixing

Kalkwasser dosing is one of the main causes of magnesium deficiency as it precipitates magnesium as magnesium hydroxide while an abundance of carbonates precipitate it as magnesium carbonate (Farley).  In either of the above cases, this means that the magnesium which has precipitated is no longer available to the animals, at least for quite some time as magnesium hydroxide will never redissolve and magnesium carbonate will take an appreciable amount of time before it will go back into solution and be available to the animals.  It should be noted here that keeping dKH levels in the 7dKH range will help prevent precipitation of magnesium in the form of magnesium carbonate.  Kalkwasser dosing should be carried out with a very slow drip rate to minimize magnesium precipitation.

If your calcium and magnesium parameters are maintained and you feel your corals are not growing well, the culprit may be extended use of chelated calcium supplements.  Chelated calcium has a tendency to bond making it more difficult to take out of solution or be absorbed by the corals.  Most, if not all liquid calcium supplements are of the chelated form.  It is a good idea to read the makeup of the calcium supplement before purchasing so you will know which form of calcium is being used in the product.  If this is not present on the label, you may want to contact the manufacturer regarding the type of calcium that is used.

Low magnesium concentrations will not affect the calcium readings on test kits but will affect the calcium absorption process of corals and other calcium loving animals.

Significantly high magnesium levels can have potentially detrimental biological effects on some animals. Weekly magnesium testing should be carried out to prevent this from occurring.

DIF 30 c Refugium LED Pendant

DIF 30 c Refugium LED Pendant

ORPHEK Announces Their New DIF 30 c Refugium LED Pendant

orphek DIF 30 C

The use of refugiums by marine aquarists has become increasingly popular over the last few years as they offer a refuge for growing macroalgae as well as an area away from the display tank to keep invertebrates that otherwise would not co-exist with certain tank mates in the display tank, notably the beautiful Mantis Shrimp.  The three most popular macroalgae that serve the purpose of absorbing dissolved nutrients are species of Gracilaria, Caulerpa, and Chaetomorpha.  Mangroves are an interesting addition but not quite as efficient at removing nutrients as macroalgae. Macroalgae are also good bio-indicators, showing signs of degrading water quality, often before your livestock.




Chaetomorpha


A Gracilaria species


Caulerpa taxifolia
Photos courtesy of Bob Fenner                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

                                                                                                                        

Marine plants grown under the right conditions also offer a replenishing food source for tank inhabitants requiring macroalgae in their diet.  The requirement to grow macroalgae is sunlight or light of the correct spectrum and food source.  This food source is in the form of nitrogen and phosphates which are produced by fish waste and uneaten foods.  Most green macroalgae of the types beneficial to our systems are found in estuaries, shallow lagoons and offshore waters where the light spectrum is higher in the orange, red, yellow, and infrared wavelengths.  These spectrums are not found in conventional refugium lighting now being advertised and sold as refugium lights.



Orphek DIF 30 C LED

Reef aquarists strive to keep nitrate and phosphate levels low in their systems as many sensitive fish and invertebrates do not tolerate high levels of these elements, although trace amounts of these elements are beneficial to some corals and clams.

With the present boon of companies producing LED fixtures for marine aquariums, no company has produced a LED fixture specifically designed for growing macroalgae until now.  Orphek has stepped forward and used their DIF Pendant LED technology to develop a multi chip LED array to cover the spectrum most beneficial for growing marine macroalgae.  This pendant uses the same housing as our DIF 30-XP which includes the highly efficient Meanwell LED Driver.  The DIF 30 c incorporates four different multi chips with the following percentages.



30% 660 nm – orange/red

40% 730 nm – red

20% 850nm – infrared

10% 3,000K – yellow



One DIF 30 c Pendant will efficiently cover an area of 24”x24”and can easily be mounted inside a cabinet by use of an eye bolt.  As in our present DIF Pendant series, the DIF 30 c is self contained and uses no cooling fan.  The energy used by the DIF 30 c is lower than some of the refugium lights produced by other companies, and using spectrums that are not beneficial for healthy and fast macro algae growth.



What you will see in using our Refugium DIF 30 c Pendant is a lush, healthy, and vibrant growth of your macro algae.  Macroalgae that are nourished by lighting in the correct spectrum to grow faster and absorb more nutrients which thereby reduce dissolved nutrient levels much more efficiently.