Being A Better Reefer: Know Your LEDs
Posted on September 9, 2011 by Jared Goldenberg : Reefs.com
Before I start, I want to be clear that this will not serve as an advertisement for any company and I won’t be targeting any company specifically as either good or bad. The purpose is to impart the knowledge I have gathered on the subject in general and pass that on to help you make better and more informed decisions. Those that know me or have followed the numerous threads on LEDs here know that until recently I was almost completely against LEDs as reef lighting. Not because I thought the tech was bad, but more because I felt the tech hadn’t caught up to our needs or rather the needs of our tanks, plus some of the colors were just nauseating and fake looking.
I feel it’s a responsibility to my business and my customers to stay on top of information on these new trends or technology as they unfold in the hobby. Since the LEDs first showed up I have stayed in the loop but remained on the sidelines until I was comfortable enough to get involved. The initial problem for me was that the first few companies on the scene had wild claims but they all had different standards and when you spoke to them everyone else was doing it wrong but they had it right. There was no way to verify any of the claims and even though many of the fixtures looked the same they were all different depending on whom you asked. So I sat and watched things unfold, as some companies came and went and new ones joined the pack with “newer” technology and “features”. It became incredibly frustrating as I knew the technology was there but nobody had the proper execution or information I was happy or even comfortable with. It was having a brand new GT500KR in the driveway but no keys in sight frustrating (perhaps a little much but you get the point and your Camaro is not nearly as awesome, it’s not even worth arguing). With everyone pointing fingers and all the different information who was I to trust?
As with any new tech wave there were throngs of “me too” companies peddling knockoffs or inferior versions of some of the better brands and eventually the herd was culled as the weak fell. It still seems like every day there is a new company with a new light and it can be overwhelming to keep track of all of them. For me, I need numbers. I need a company that can back up their claims with actual research and not only be able to show me that research, but apply it to tanks since some of the larger builds require a lot of planning and you need to be able to calculate spread and useful light at depth ahead of time. I can count the number of companies that have been able to produce this level of information on less than one hand. My needs may be a little more extreme than a regular hobbyist but the level of knowledge should still be important to anyone looking to purchase LEDs for their reef.
So to the point, what have I learned through all of my research and dealings? I’ve learned a lot. Some is good applicable information while some is just what to keep an eye out for and avoid. Here are the bullet points:
Good-
Visible color is meaningless, the lights need to be able to support photosynthesis. Corals might look fake awesome under incredibly blue light but it isn’t always beneficial.
When dealing with a technology based on efficiency that is constantly advancing, “wattage” is a meaningless measurement. LEDs can range in efficiency and a lower wattage diode can produce far more useful light than a higher wattage unit and as the tech advances this divergence will be even greater. Some companies also underdrive their LEDs at lower wattages to produce even less heat but still crank out beneficial light better than some other fixtures.
You get what you pay for. LEDs are still fairly new and as newer and better products come out the prices will remain somewhat elevated for a quality unit where as the cheap knockoffs will end up costing more when you eventually realize that you need to upgrade to the better units anyway.
Not all LEDs are created equal, not even close in some cases. While Cree and a few other well known names can sometimes be a safe bet, there are plenty of companies using cheap LEDs that are almost useless.
“WOW that’s bright” does not equate to “WOW this must be a great fixture”. LEDs are bright but without quality diodes or the right optics for your setup some won’t penetrate much useful light past the first few inches of water.
Quality build. it may sound superficial but if a fixture looks well constructed than odds are the company at least cares enough to not want to be perceived as producing garbage. This isn’t always the case but it does warrant a second look most of the time.
Look for innovation. The companies who are producing full lines of LED products for tanks and who are producing new products deserve your attention. The few companies I have been dealing with are always working on something new, pushing the technology forward instead of just boxing up the same crap everyone else is producing.
Watch out for-
Features. Beyond the on off switch or built-in timers, most features are more for you than the corals and fish. Storm simulation serves no purpose other than to look cool and scare the crap out of your fish. Dimming is ok for some setups where the light may be a little intense but for the most part your corals don’t care. Feature-heavy units make you wonder how much time actually went into the light itself as opposed to the controller…
Wild claims are all over the place. If something sounds too good to be true and doesn’t cost that much than odds are you are getting taken for a ride. This also goes under the available information. If a company can’t back up their claims with hard data than just move on to the next one.
Customer service is a huge point for us. There are companies that are quick to reply and keep in contact at all hours which is great. I don’t expect everyone to reply to me at 2am but if I reach out a few times with no contact whatsoever after even a few days than I don’t deal with them.
One of the biggest selling points for us, when it comes to LEDs, is the efficiency. It sounds obvious but a recent job I helped design is a 12′Lx5′Wx4′T roughly 1800 gal mixed reef for a public aquarium build. Rather than go with halides which would have required several thousand watts, which meant a large chiller, and yearly bulb replacements, we went with 100w LED pendants. Not only were we able to eliminate the need for a chiller and cut out the bulb replacements for at least the next 11 years, but the entire system would be powered by only 1200w of lighting (that’s thousands a month in savings for those keeping track). That’s insane when you really think about it because there are significantly smaller home systems around 200gal that are running at least that just in halides. My point is that while some LEDs seem very expensive and the urge to “save money” up front by going with cheaper and often inferior units sounds like a good idea, the light pays for itself either way so spending a few extra bucks up front will pay out in the end. In the end the choice is ultimately up to you but I would stress that you conduct your own research on the lights you are interested in and be objective. It can be hard to have your heart set on something and have to wait to find the right one but jumping the gun and buying the first light you find can be disastrous.
copyright all right reserved to : Reefs.com Posted on September 9, 2011 by Jared Goldenberg
LED lighting for aquarium : | LED lights for Reef Saltwater marine Aquarium | Aquarium Freshwater Planted LED lighting Products :Atlantik v2.1,Atlantik Compact,Atlantik Pendant,Helix 5000 protein skimmer,Helix 5000 protein skimmer ,NR12 PAR38, PR72 Planted, PR72 Reef, PR156,Azurelite.
Monday, September 12, 2011
Sunday, September 11, 2011
PUR Photosynthetically Useable Radiation
PUR Photosynthetically Useable Radiation
400-550 nm (violet, blue) and 620-700 nm (red)
PUR differs from PAR because the basic definition of PAR is any light in a specific frequency range. PUR is the usable portion of PAR, and different photosynthetic species will have a different PUR range to which they respond.
For example: you are given a choice to illuminate your coral with two different lights, each with the same PAR value.
However, one of these lights produces energy that peaks at 450nm, or the blue spectrum, and one peaks at 590nm, or the yellow spectrum.
For zooxanthellae in your coral's tissue, the light peaking at 450nm will have greater PUR than the light that peaks at 590nm Green LED, although the PAR numbers are the same.
PUR is a much more useful way to compare LED lighting than any other method.
Most LEDs emit excellent PAR, but often only ~50% of the PAR is PUR.
The higher the PUR:PAR ratio (check the spectrograph!) the more effective the LED will be for lighting photosynthetic reef invertebrates.
[caption id="attachment_870" align="alignleft" width="590" caption="Example of 100% PUR Photosynthetically Useable Radiation"][/caption]
Why PUR and not PAR?
PAR 400nm-700nm
PUR 400-550 nm and 620-700 nm
"Algae grow at wavelengths between 665 to 680 nanometers (nm). Cyanobacteria grow at these wavelengths and at shorter wavelengths such as 525 and 620 nm. "
Read more: How to Battle Cyanobacteria
Get Shortlink: http://wp.me/p1HhmG-kg
400-550 nm (violet, blue) and 620-700 nm (red)
PUR differs from PAR because the basic definition of PAR is any light in a specific frequency range. PUR is the usable portion of PAR, and different photosynthetic species will have a different PUR range to which they respond.
For example: you are given a choice to illuminate your coral with two different lights, each with the same PAR value.
However, one of these lights produces energy that peaks at 450nm, or the blue spectrum, and one peaks at 590nm, or the yellow spectrum.
For zooxanthellae in your coral's tissue, the light peaking at 450nm will have greater PUR than the light that peaks at 590nm Green LED, although the PAR numbers are the same.
PUR is a much more useful way to compare LED lighting than any other method.
Most LEDs emit excellent PAR, but often only ~50% of the PAR is PUR.
The higher the PUR:PAR ratio (check the spectrograph!) the more effective the LED will be for lighting photosynthetic reef invertebrates.
[caption id="attachment_870" align="alignleft" width="590" caption="Example of 100% PUR Photosynthetically Useable Radiation"][/caption]
Why PUR and not PAR?
PAR 400nm-700nm
PUR 400-550 nm and 620-700 nm
"Algae grow at wavelengths between 665 to 680 nanometers (nm). Cyanobacteria grow at these wavelengths and at shorter wavelengths such as 525 and 620 nm. "
Read more: How to Battle Cyanobacteria
Get Shortlink: http://wp.me/p1HhmG-kg
PAR Photosynthetically Active Radiation
PAR Photosynthetically Active Radiation
400nm-700nm
[caption id="attachment_204" align="alignleft" width="560" caption="The above spectrograph illustrates the spectral output/PAR output of our PR156_UV fixtures "][/caption]
What is PAR?
This can be a sticky subject, so let's keep it simple and practical for us reef aquarists! For our uses, PAR is the number of light quanta (particles of light, called photons) that fall in a square meter over the course of one second, that are in between the wavelengths of ~400nm-700nm (nm stands for nanometer, or billionths of a meter).
It as a measurement of the total amount of visible light that shines on a square meter when you start a stopwatch and hit stop afer one second. That's PAR in a nutshell!
Why is PAR important?
PAR is important because it is roughly the measurement of how much usable light energy is available to your corals, anemones, clams - your reef aquarium in general! It's also one of the easiest ways for you to measure the exact amount of light your reef aquarium is getting, which is useful because too little and too much light is bad for photosynthetic invertebrates and plants!
How do you measure PAR?
PAR can be measured with a quantum meter with a detachable, and for aquarium use, a submersible probe.
What are acceptable PAR values?
This greatly depends on the species of coral or other photosynthetic animal, but the acceptable range is roughly 100-450 PAR, measured as PPF (which most PAR meters do). Obviously the low end is preferred by low light corals such as mushroom corals and elegance corals, whereas the high end would be acceptable for shallow water 'SPS' species. For those of you with nature or planted freshwater aquariums, the PAR requirements of plants tend to be lower: between 20-200 PAR, depending on the species.
Read more about PUR
Get shortlink: http://wp.me/p1HhmG-kd
400nm-700nm
[caption id="attachment_204" align="alignleft" width="560" caption="The above spectrograph illustrates the spectral output/PAR output of our PR156_UV fixtures "][/caption]
What is PAR?
This can be a sticky subject, so let's keep it simple and practical for us reef aquarists! For our uses, PAR is the number of light quanta (particles of light, called photons) that fall in a square meter over the course of one second, that are in between the wavelengths of ~400nm-700nm (nm stands for nanometer, or billionths of a meter).
It as a measurement of the total amount of visible light that shines on a square meter when you start a stopwatch and hit stop afer one second. That's PAR in a nutshell!
Why is PAR important?
PAR is important because it is roughly the measurement of how much usable light energy is available to your corals, anemones, clams - your reef aquarium in general! It's also one of the easiest ways for you to measure the exact amount of light your reef aquarium is getting, which is useful because too little and too much light is bad for photosynthetic invertebrates and plants!
How do you measure PAR?
PAR can be measured with a quantum meter with a detachable, and for aquarium use, a submersible probe.
What are acceptable PAR values?
This greatly depends on the species of coral or other photosynthetic animal, but the acceptable range is roughly 100-450 PAR, measured as PPF (which most PAR meters do). Obviously the low end is preferred by low light corals such as mushroom corals and elegance corals, whereas the high end would be acceptable for shallow water 'SPS' species. For those of you with nature or planted freshwater aquariums, the PAR requirements of plants tend to be lower: between 20-200 PAR, depending on the species.
Read more about PUR
Get shortlink: http://wp.me/p1HhmG-kd
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
About Wet Work LLC -New Orleans LA
[gallery link="file" columns="4" orderby="title"]
About Wet Work LLC -New Orleans LA
DESIGN
wet work
can answer all these questions for you. We will take the time to thoroughly discuss tank size, location, system
access and installation, water storage, temperature control, and system electrical requirements.
We will create equipment lists in varying price ranges without eschewing quality, and explain in detail the function of each necessary piece of equipment and what the different price levels have to offer. Custom components are designed and manufactured as needed. Systems are designed so nothing within the display detracts from its beauty—that means no visible or dangling wires, tubes, or pipes. All you will see is your reef and its lively inhabitants.
[caption id="attachment_1067" align="aligncenter" width="633"] T5-LED aquarium light by orphek[/caption]
DEVELOPMENT
Throughout this stage, you are fully involved in the process so you understand the "what" and "why" of each component. We firmly believe in minimum environmental impact and have an unabiding respect for the lives that we place in your care. Whenever possible, ceramic rock is recommended for use rather than wild collected "live rock" and captive grown corals are always recommended over delicate wild-collected colonies. Reefscapes are based on the usual viewing positions within the room and are carefully crafted to completely obscure hardware and circulation equipment. Introducing animals is a careful and lengthy process, beginning at the bottom of the food chain and working upwards. Compatibility is always taken into account. It takes months to stock a reef system, not days or weeks.
[caption id="attachment_1068" align="aligncenter" width="478"] Orphek-aquarium-led-ligh-PR156-UV[/caption]
RESTORATION
Far too many hobbyists have reached this point because they have been ill-advised; had an inadequate, cheap, or poorly designed system shoved down their inexperienced throats; were told they could dump hordes of fish and corals in their aquarium at once as soon as their tank was "cycled", or simply got too busy. Life does get in the way sometimes. At least half of wet work's clients are people just like you, people who's moments of success have instilled in them a desire to achieve it again, in spite of expensive and painful losses. Whatever your problem, we can fix it. Just remember though, nothing good happens quickly in a reef aquarium. An overnight disaster can take months to fix, but it can be done. Let us bring back the beauty!
[caption id="attachment_1069" align="aligncenter" width="638"] orphek-T5-LED[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_1657" align="aligncenter" width="720"] full tank shot of orphek t5 LED aquarium light[/caption]
F. Samuel Slobusky
Wet Work LLC
www.wetwork.co
New Orleans LA 70001
My reef with Orphek PR156 & DIF100B
Thanks bmcoh for sharing your amazing tank.
http://youtu.be/Y9nAAdBhm6M
Moshik's reef with Orphek PR156 & DIF100B
http://youtu.be/Y9nAAdBhm6M
Sunday, September 4, 2011
Broad Spectrum LEDs From Orphek-by:marine-engineers
Broad Spectrum LEDs From Orphek-by:marine-engineers
It’s been accepted for years that we need blues and whites over our reef tanks to get the nice crisp white look and still the coral pop that our eyes love, but after a brief conversation with Orphek, it sounds like there may be other options. Their new diodes are being designed in an attempt to cover larger spectrums than most, including UV, and from the look of the spectrographs, may just be able to pull it off.
It’s been accepted for years that we need blues and whites over our reef tanks to get the nice crisp white look and still the coral pop that our eyes love, but after a brief conversation with Orphek, it sounds like there may be other options. Their new diodes are being designed in an attempt to cover larger spectrums than most, including UV, and from the look of the spectrographs, may just be able to pull it off.
Saturday, September 3, 2011
"We know MHL works, but LED can work better" coralmagazine-us
"We know MHL works, but LED can work better" coralmagazine-us
In celebration of Coral Magazine's upcoming issue focused on LED lighting, I wanted to take this opportunity to share a write up about LED lighting by Shawn Wilson (Mr. Wilson on Reefcentral and Canreef) and his company, Reef and Rainforest Design. As many of you probably know from his 300+ page thread on Reefcentral, Shawn is installing a 1350 gallon reef aquarium for the system's owner, Peter with a money-is-no-object approach. Both are committed to providing and implementing best-practice information for the benefit of hobbyists everywhere. Here's what Shawn has to say about the processes behind the decision to use LED lights in this awesome system!
Visit: http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/we-know-mhl-works-led-can-work-better
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